![]() Try them, then dull a short amount of the tips and tails a bit to taste." I'm the furthest dude ever from a tuning expert (spoiled with CO snow), but I've done this for years after having my skis tuned. I think it depends on the skier and the ski.ĭetuning might be too strong, more making not so sharp at the tips and tails. My Navigators that were also tuned at the same time didn't need anything of the sort. ![]() They were tuned by the same guy at the same time. That was the case with my 8.5 Ti's and they skied better after I dulled them a bit. "Or maybe the tips and tails were just a bit too sharp. These can benefit from increasing that base bevel just beyond or at the contact points for an inch or so forward, quote from the slush/crud thread: ![]() (Not that I've ever had to increase base bevel on a race ski, actually - just run it sharp.)Ĭertain skis I still really like have a built in hookiness as part of the design - at least for a person of my weight, height and ski dynamics/style in certain situations. FIS race ski or fat powder charger - this works. That way, as you lay the ski over, there is always a sharp edge there to increase the effective edge when it will be good. It works, a very high percentage of the time just the amount of that first attempt. In the rare times that doesn't do it, I gradually add more base bevel past the contact points, then test, until that does it. I incrementally increase the base bevel, at first (and hopefully it's enough) in the way describes. I never detune, in the sense of dulling the edge. 7/3, usually, for race or frontside or strong, precision edge skis. On detuning: I run my skis sharp from tip to tail, often 1/2 for powder skis and most all mountain skis. If a shop "detuned" my AXes (and that ski in particular, among others) without my asking for it, or without asking me first, I'd never go there again, and I'd ask for a refund. That said those that try my skis generally learn they can bite you if you have sloppy technique (at any speed might I add, worst of all they usually do it ultra low unsuspecting speeds like when getting off the lift). I have NO edge catch issues in any snow/terrain conditions. Way more relaxed skiing and when you crank it up to rip it, they’ll hold like no tomorrow.įor those that don’t know my preferred ski is a FIS GS ski (has been for decades) in which I run an aggressive 4/0.5 tune in all conditions. ![]() I suspect you ski very neutral anyway, so don’t over ski the zero detune, give it just enough input. You’ll be surprised at how much you’ve been missing. Ski them for a week and then try an older ski set/tune. this season try a zero detune (definitely remove the hanging burr), let the ski design do what’s it supposed to. Think of it as you roll onto the edge, the ski length increase and radius decreases as the edges engage. The only draw back a slightly slower initial response (easily overcome with a slight timing change) while providing a touch (actually a lot) of forgiveness for skier error or terrain conditions. This is likely the first non race ski I would buy as its limits just exceed my ability. I did the tune to a 3/1 and was surprised at how well they hold, along with how progressive and smooth the edge hold came on and how the radius tightened as they edged over while still providing race ski type grip (up until that point any ski at this level would have been a put off for me as the grip would be hit and miss, not to mention all sorts of other negative draw backs). While haven’t skied the race versions, I have skied some Rossi all around 78 (I believe) listed as an intermediate/advanced ski. Top end race skis now have this (ie Rossi/Dynastar). Something else that I will add that has changed the tuning game dramatically is tip and tail rise (or rocker depending on the extent) combined with side cut shape.
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